by Bruce
Corwin, Northeast Region PCA (from NOR'EASTER)Previously, I promised that
I would tell all the "secrets" of the upgrades to my 968 for autocrossing. Some
of what I learned is car specific, but most of it can be applied to any model.
The most important element in a car's competitiveness is the driver. Autocrossing is a
sport that requires concentration and focus, which is hard to achieve when you're running
the event. For example I was always too busy to walk the course, which is very important.
So my first upgrade was to study the sport, read books by the experts and focus on
winning.
Next it was time to upgrade the car. I was fortunate that my car has the rare M030
sport suspension package which includes 17" wheels, bigger brakes, limited slip,
adjustable shocks and other upgraded suspension components. I wanted to run in the
"stock" class, so I carefully read the autocross series rules to first determine
which modifications I could make that would fall under the "free modifications"
category. Anything you do to your car beyond "free modifications" could
potentially put your car into a "modified" class.
The first modification was to upgrade the car's wheels and tires. I had been using R1
tires -- 235 front, 255 rear -- on the factory wheels. I upgraded these to Hoosier
autocross compound A3S02 tires, 245 front and 275 rear. Autobahn Performance is a Kenisis
dealer and set me up with lightweight K20 three-piece wheels. Despite the bigger wheels
and tires, there was an unsprung, rotating mass weight savings of a few pounds per corner.
The Hoosiers are too soft to drive on the street, so it means having to change tires
before and after the event, which is a pain, but part of the cost of winning.
Last year I had a custom four-wheel alignment done to the car to establish a compromise
setting for camber and such. It is my daily driver so I didn't want the handling to get
too squirrelly. The car was also lowered a small amount. Lowering ride height too much on
944/968s can cause accelerated wear in front end components. Corner balancing the car,
which I have not done yet, would be a further improvement. This helps when, for example, a
car sits level, but all the weight is on the left-front and right-rear wheels, which would
result in poor handling.
For engine modifications, I started with a baseline dynamometer test. Next I had a B+B
muffler, Autothority chip and Magnacore wires installed. According to Autothority, B+B and
PowerHaus, the muffler and chip should give somewhere between 19 and 31 additional HP. A
second trip to the dyno showed almost no change, a very slight gain here, a very slight
loss there with maximum HP down from 205.6 to 203.8 at the rear wheels. So much for truth
in advertising! However, the chip does give me an extra 200 RPM before the rev-limiter
kicks in, the red wires look nice and the muffler saves about 10 pounds and sounds real
cool.
The next thing to try was replacing the catalytic converter with a test pipe. Perhaps
this would free up the restriction in the exhaust and allow me to take advantage of the
B+B muffler. This raised the sound level from real cool to almost obnoxious. Back on the
dyno, I found a gain of about 5-10 HP between 2900 and 3300 with max HP now down to 200.7
from the original 205.6. I wondered if a K+N or other air filter might help, so while it
was on the dyno, I also tried with no air filter which didn't do much other than bring max
HP up to 203.9. Then I tried disconnecting the intake box and letting it just breathe the
air under the hood, which was open and had a big fan blowing on it. This gave a little
more power in the high RPM range with max power reaching 208.3. Seems like a lot to go
through for a gain of 2.7 HP from the stock configuration.
So this is what I learned. Porsche knows what they are doing when they design a power
plant. If you have a turbo or want to make major modifications to your engine, you can
take that route (which often leads to reliability problems). Otherwise, your best bet is
to focus your efforts on (1) improving your driving skills, (2) mounting the fattest,
stickiest tires possible on lightweight wheels, and (3) optimizing the suspension,
including alignment, ride height and corner-balancing.
Image #1 compares runs number 003 and 007.
The more horizontal line is the torque and the increasing line is horsepower. Run 003
(red) is just a baseline run in 4th gear with everything stock, except for the wheels
which are Anteras (and which were mounted on the car for all the runs.) Run 007 (blue) is
after installing B+B exhaust, Autothority chip and Magnacore wires. You will notice 200
RPM more before the rev limiter kicked in, also a flat spot in HP appears around 3000 RPM.
Overall very little change. A little more here, a little less there.
Image #2 shows
Run 007 (red) compared to Run 009 (blue) which is the same configuration, except without
the catalytic converter. Notice the flat spot from 2500 RPM to 3500 RPM goes away, but
otherwise still very little change.
Image #3 shows
Run 009 (blue) (chip, exhaust, wires, no cat) compared to Run 011 (red) in which we
removed not only the air filter, but also left the lid off the air box and left the hood
open with a big fan blowing on it. The results show no change until high RPMs when you get
a little more power (5 to 10 HP) because the engine can breathe easier.