The bumpers come off easily by loosening an Allen-headed screw and rotating the bumper up (Figure 1). The aluminum underneath is the real bumper, a square section aluminum piece running the width of the car which in turn attaches to the frame via the collision shock absorber tubes a la VW. Two STRAIGHT holes through the bumper and you are ready. The shock tubes don't pull out or push in; they just wobble up and down about an eighth of an inch. Look at the pictures and send me any questions. The two bolts are welded into the hitch for easy installation. Removing or installing it takes about a minute.

The trailer starts with a 4x6 ft. perimeter piece with cross braces where the pipe couplings must be welded to the frame to support the screw-in sections of vertical pipe. These, of course, keep the cargo (wheels) from moving about. The pipes are staggered somewhat to allow the trailer to be narrower than the car. The axle is centered under the frame so that the weight is balanced whether you carry one, two, or three sets of tires. Longer pipes can be screwed in for taller loads. Or you can remove the pipes for flat hauling (go-karts anyone?).

There is a mesh floor welded to the frame. It's all my design and a local built it for $800. Not cheap, but exactly right. Oh yes, big wheels for towing at ANY speed. I can hardly tell it's back there. There is room for a tool box on the yolk but I haven't needed it. Pipe tops are drilled for locks.